In Quiet Shelters’ guidebook, the small caption under Buckskin Gulch reads, “The reason I fell in love with southern Utah.” That journey ten years ago solidified something inside me. I named this feeling “heart places.” It's a tug, something intrinsic, that pulls with urgency towards a place. I have three. But that day in October put Kanab on my “heart places” list. One day, I will have a house out here.
Ten years ago, we had iPhones, but the internet hadn’t caught up to step-by-step guides to every trail on the planet. Back then, we mined a bit more for information. Obscure blogs, word of mouth, and we trusted Utah roads without knowing better. We were the people who took 2x2 vehicles without maps down sandy roads. Digging, pushing, finding juniper branches large enough to resemble tire recovery tracks, arguing...we’d make it out. The Utah landscape is a quick and fierce teacher.
So our discovery of Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch was something akin to that. Although many had come before, the empty small pullout dirt parking area at the Wire Pass Trailhead suggested otherwise back then.
Walking into Buckskin Gulch is like stepping back in time. The towering walls rise above you massive and imposing. You feel the weight of history pressing down, the ancient waters that smoothed and polished the stone, leaving behind a testament to the power of nature. Evidence of past civilizations is etched into the rock, secrets whispered of those who walked here long before us.
That first wander into the canyon, we encountered a couple hesitating before a large pool of water. The mud was deep at the edges, a sticky reminder of Utah's grip when wet. They decided to stop, uncertain of what lay beneath. We, on the other hand, stripped down to our essentials, holding our backpacks overhead like offerings to the canyon gods. Wading in, not knowing the depth, the water crept higher until it clasped our chests with its icy tentacles. The cold stole our breath at first. But as we moved forward, it became a rite of passage. Each step a bond, each shiver a connection to the raw, untamed beauty around us. We laughed through chattering teeth, feeling vibrantly alive, our spirits intertwined with the timelessness of the canyon.
Every so often, we’d come to a wider opening in the canyon where a slice of sun would pour in. We’d dry out, soaking up what warmth we could. These moments were magic, like the canyon was sharing itself with us, offering a brief respite before we continued on our path.
Buckskin Gulch is renowned for being one of the longest and deepest slot canyons in the world. Its unique geology and stunning beauty attract adventurers from all over. The canyon’s narrow passages and dramatic shapes create an otherworldly experience that is both challenging and rewarding. It’s so loved by people who seek both adventure and a deep connection with nature.
Today, the parking lot is larger, the crowds are thicker, but if you venture farther into the canyon than most, you will still grab moments of incredible solitude. The solitude is profound, and the quiet envelops you, broken only by the sounds of your footsteps and the occasional call of a bird. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect and immerse yourself in the natural world, leaving behind the noise and distractions of everyday life.
For those who venture here, Buckskin Gulch offers an experience like no other. It’s not just a hike; it’s a journey through time, a dance with the ancient elements that have shaped this land, and a humbling reminder of how small we are. Whether it’s your first visit or one of many, the canyon has a way of drawing you in, leaving an indelible mark on your heart.
If you are planning to visit Buckskin Gulch grab your permit here. And if you're not planning, my advice is to start today.
Much love to you!
Heather
